Oh, Thommy Boy

Images from Thom Browne Menswear A/W 2011

What Thom Browne is doing with traditional menswear design is truly remarkable. I dream a dream of owning a fleet of his suits in different styles - the peek-a-boo ankle, the short suit, and more recently the eighteenth century inspired garb shown at his Fall 2011 menswear show. I would be proud to wear any of his clothing to a business meeting. My professionalism may be brought into question, but my style would remain untouched.

With his more recent women's collections, now with two under his belt, I can't help but feel a little bit of jealousy. Thom Browne has always been a hidden secret, just for the boys - my compensation for having so many of my favorite designers lacking or not putting forth any effort at all in the menswear department (Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel can you hear me?). And now, one of our hidden treasures is headed to the other side. Straight men? Dainty feet? Must women get everything? So far his involvement with the other hasn't taken away his focus from the original menswear line. In fact, his lines boast a cohesion unseen by most designers that tackle both the men's and women's markets.

One of the best things about Mr. Browne is that he gives his customers options. You can be his runway vision dressed in leg-of-mutton sleeves or the jumper in gray mohair or you can scale it back and take pieces like the gray plaid overcoat for a fashion forward and sensible look. With that said, the gray jumper has my name on it. I'd pair it with a simple white button-up and a tie, maybe some brogues or saddle shoes, and run in front of a camera every chance I got because nothing says "Photograph me!" more than a 6'1'' man in a jumper.

As far as the women's line goes, you can definitely tell the hand that designed them. The shaping, proportion play, and jovial mix of plaids are Thom Browne staples yet they don't become stale when repurposed for the female form. Fashion needs more rounded skirts, especially in variations of plaid. I can't say that I understand Thome Browne's egg-shaped creations - Winter wear for the real life Russian Babushka doll - but, I can't take my eyes off of them either. I mean you kind of have to applaud the mind that comes up with that design idea. If only for its sheer brazenness.

Images from Thom Browne Womenswear A/W 2011